The End

"Be it ever so humble," We are home!

The last roundup....

The day started terrible for me. I felt poorly as I was having a problem with my stomach. I was not able to hold anything down. We went to breakfast and then went back to the room. So the morning instead of my usual walk around town, I spent the last day attempting to relax in the room trying to sleep. I did go to the business office to print out our boarding passes. The sun was shinning it is going to be a beautiful day to fly.

The flight was uneventful and went without delay. We arrived home at 11:30 pm

How this trip was different & the same....

No music moments. We did not hang out at the sites alone like we did last time. Since we did not drive we had drivers waiting for us to take us back to town/hotel.
Not as intimate w/o driving
Less stress w/o driving
More walking
More tiring
Less money spent on food and lodging
We stood in more budget places
This trip was done even more on the fly
Not enough days, in future need 19-21 days not 16.
Smallest bag I ever traveled with and it was great
Great to have IPad with us.
Lots of wonderful, giving, caring friendly people.
I just might invest a few dollars in tour business in Flores with Luis and Ace

Bill was just as great to travel with this time as the last.
I got us a March Trip in the works.

Honorable Mentions

This is the time and place where I thank those individuals who made our travels and world a nicer place to journey. Your acts of kindness whether random or part of your job did not go unnoticed.

A special shout out to the amazing guy in Honduras who paid for my french fries and reinforced my belief in human nature. I wish I had an extra Key Chain to give you.

Bailey the amazing driver and tour guide
Staff at the hotel in Belize
Anna from Jungle Spa
The kid who gave us Altun Ha tour
Anna from Maruba Spa
The people who made up our chicken bus ride to San Ignacio
Austin Ireland cab driver who took us to Cahal Pech
Raffrielle the day manerger at Cahel Pech who hooks us up with tours etc
Oscar the bartender who makes a mean rum punch and is the best bartender in Mesoamerica
Tour Guide of Cabal Pech.
Luis and Ace tour guys from Flores
Corina the massage therapist from Antigua
Couple we chatted up at airport from Portland Ore.
To the Mayan women who kept trying to shake a sale out of Bill
Alfredo tour guy in Antigua who has wife and kids in New Hampshire. He lived and worked in Boston before getting deported as an illegal.
Angela the inn manager from Casa Cafe in Copan
Mike the tour guide.
Susan from Chelsea NYC staying at the Casa Cafe
Howard guy from Queens who owns Casa Cafe and gave us a lift to the bus station
Nice Herman Alas bus worker who help with bags and cab to hotel in Guatemala City.
Woman at Business Center who made calls to secure our bus ride.
Marvin

San Salvador.....

Well we did better with the bus this time as we got first class seats. So much more comfortable and befitting our station in life. After all we're big shots.
We go into San Salvador at 8pm, we took a cab to the Intercontinental Hotel which was over priced and not as nice as the Barcelo. It is only for a night and tomorrow we fly home.

Photos and things I missed...

When we were in Belize driving we came across these "cowboys" on horses leading about 8 buffalo to a ranch. Accept for TV or the zoo I never saw buffalo on the move.
I was able to get my shoes shined about 6 times due to the man kids that have shoe shine boxes and hustling for money. I respect their hustle, and had my shoes shinned many times.
Xmas trees and carols playing in Flores. Big Christmas trees set up in Antigua and Guatemala city.

Day in Guatemala City..

Bill is still sound asleep when I get up at 6am, shower and get some coffee downstairs. Breakfast is included with the room but I will wait until Bill gets up. I take my time going around about an hour and a half. I find the bus tour operator, secure our tickets for this afternoon bus to San Salvador and stroll around the neighborhood. The hotel is located in the business district of Zone 9 & 10. The streets are busy with morning traffic. I do not think their cars and buses have emission standards as the pollution from the exhausts is terrible. I find myself coughing and feel it in my lungs. I make it back to the hotel at 9 am and lo and behold our Bill is up and reading. He lets me know he is ready to go eat. The breakfast buffet included in the room is enormous.

I did not mentioned it but the executive room with breakfast included came out to $104.00 tax included.

We decide to sit in the lobby and I find Bill The Oregonian paper to read about his beloved Ducks losing to USC in the fourth quarter. I left him alone a bit to mourn the loss as I went to the business center to take care of getting a late check out. I picked Bill up and mentioned about going to the room to catch a couple of hours more of sleep. As for me, I am typing this blog entry for my minuscule following to read.
The bus leaves at 3pm today.

NYC Key Chain Recipients

Our driver from Belize Mr. Bailey
Taxi cab driver in San Ignacio Mr. Austin Ireland
Anna from the Jungle Spa
Luis tour operator from Flores
Ace our Tikal tour guide
Angela from Casa Cafe B&B

Some Postcards Sent...

I did not realize that I could upload postcards to the blog so here goes...

Guatemala City....

We arrive at the Hotel Barcelo a top of the line convention/business hotel at 8pm. We attempt to take the elevator to our floor when I realize the elevator is not moving. I notice a key slot and figure we need to put our key in the slot in order for it to stop at our floor. Sometimes, it is wonderful to check into a first class chain hotel. This hotel is made for people who never want to leave the hotel or here for a few days of conference. There are 3 restaurants, 2 bars, breakfast room, gym, pool yada yada...
It is not our usual style of traveling but. Figure we needed a great hotel after a long bus ride today and another not as long tomorrow. Bill promptly falls asleep and I download some movies/tv episodes for the bus ride tomorrow.

Time to move on...

Today is a day we having nothing much planned because we are leaving back to Guatemala on the bus. I think we will get off in Guatemala City and stay the night to eliminate another hour bus ride to Antigua. While Guatemala city is supposedly unattractive and said to be unsafe, I will look for a large chain upscale hotel where we can just eat in the hotel and relax. I want to cut down on the travel time to give Bill more down time.

The day starts with a lovely breakfast at a wrought-iron table on the terrace of Casa Café -- fruit, including luscious papaya, scrambled eggs, and a thick slice of home-baked bread. Oh, and pineapple marmalade. the kitted come begging for food and we reward their trust.

I spend the morning catching up on the blog and fixing photos to post. Bill is reading and relaxing in the sun. Or I though so but he was taking a nap. I walk into town pick up som water and snacks for the trip. The town is alive with people milling about, cooking food and just people sitting around talking. Came back packed and took a photo of the carved door to our room. I was happy to see Angela and made her the final recipient of the NYC Keychain Awards. Howard, who owns the B&B gave us a lift to the bus station. That was so nice of him. I complimented him on his hotel as we shook hands and said goodbye.

We enter the crowded bus terminal waiting on line to check our bags and check in. The bus is full to capacity. The bus is scheduled to leave at 2:20. I stop in the food area to get us an order of french fries to hold us over. When i go to pat, i realize that i do not have any Honduras money left and they will not take Guatemala money. This Honduras guy comes from nowhere and pays for my french fries. Before i even get a chance to properly thank him or ask his name, he disappears into the crowd. What a wonderful gesture, a random act of kindness that surprises but stays with you forever. I find that traveling reinforces the knowledge and belief in human nature and how many good people are in the world.

The ride seems to take forever. I was glad I had some downloaded movies on my IPad. Bill passed the time by reading or snoozing. We arrive at Guatemala City about 8pm. A guy working for the bus company helps us get a cab to our hotel.

Casa Cafe Review

Casa Cafe Review:

Pros:

Great view
Beautifully designed and laid out
Friendly engaging, helpful staff
Quiet
Hammocks outside room
Best Breakfast
Close to town, yet not directly on main square.
Good WiFi
Kittens running around
Very clean, well maintained.
Caring, good guy and owner, Howard.
Stone winding walkway down to split level rooms
Draws people from all over the world
Reasonable

Cons:
No A/c but not really a con because it was fine without it and cool at night.

Our Bill....

Throughout Antigua there are these Mayan women selling all kinds of "stuff"; rugs, fake jade, blankets, tablecloths, scarves, flutes, and more. If I didn't keep an eye on Bill he would have needed another five suitcases for all the shit they would have sold him. They knew a soft touch when they saw one. We would sit in the park and I would tell Bill you hang out and I'll get some coffee or something to drink. I would come back and see some woman with her kid on her back giving Bill the hard sell. Bill felt bad and engage every person is some form of conversation where he told them how wonderful and beautiful their wares were but he was not interested. The woman even knew him by his first name and would call him, Bill!

One of their sale pitches was to say "Something nice for the wife, secretary, or for your children." We are sitting in the park one afternoon and a woman comes up to me says "Something beautiful for your wife", I said No Wife, then she says your secretary, I say, No Job, finally she says "for your lovely children", I say, The heck with them, she goes, "You mean, I talk to Mr. Bill", and proceeds to get him to buy something. It was amazing how when we took a walk, she would find Bill.

Our Bill can still read up a storm but boy can he sleep. I counted 18 hours one day. now I know the reason I can rarely and I mean rarely get him on the phone in Portland. He is sleeping in bed or on the couch.

Bar photos...

Another watering hole. Looks like the last chance saloon.

Guides Vs Self Visits

I usually tour on my own when visiting historical sites. I read up on it, get the small booklet sold and let my eyes and emotions fill me in on what I am seeing. Staying as long or little as I wanted or needed. This time around we exclusively we used guides. In Scotland, we did not.

Private Guides Pros:

You get a knowledgeable individual who knows more and has more information at his/her fingertips then you would from some reading. This becomes nullified if you are an expert on the subject.
Guides can answer questions that come up an interest you.
Guides take you through the site in an organized manner progressing from era to era, and/or in level of importance.
Guides can provide other local recommendations in regards to other sites to see, food and transportation choices.
Guides provide their own spin on the history of the site.
Guides provide a wealth of other knowledge in how the culture survived such as plant life, tress farming, religion and trade.
They look out for you and let you know where to walk and if it is precarious or not.
It is great to interact with a local person of knowledge.

Private Guide Cons:

Costly.
Sometimes they feel the need to keep talking for the entire three hours or more.
They have a prepared list of stuff that they cover which is good but if there are specific topics that interest to you, then you have to redirect him to your questions.
You need to assert yourself and slow the guide down I you want to take photos, or just be quiet and feel the presence of the moment.
You need to tell the guide when you just want to slow down and rest.
The difference in personalities and styles of the guides. This is not necessarily a con.


Conclusion:

All in all they are a wonderful experience, worth the cost but be prepared to be assertive.

Copan evening...

Another exhausting day walking the ruins. Bill and I stopped for lunch and drinks at this funky establishment. We had a few drinks and order some French fries. We made our way back to the room about 4 pm and Bill promptly went to sleep and does not wake up until 8 am the next morning. I relax, play with the cats, blog, download photos and just chill out. The evening comes and I decide to make my way to Twisted Tanya's fora drink. I have to say I have not had any really good drinks in Guatemala and Honduras. The best drinks were at Cabal Pech with Oscar the Bartender. I look over the menu and see a desert that looks delicious. Warm homemade brownie topped with ice cream and chocolate syrup. I order it! Wow was it awesome. I stagger back to the hotel and see the kitty near our room. There are some cookies in the room to feed her. I set myself up in the hammock, pick up the kitty and put her on my lap, feed her some cookies and the last thing I remember is falling asleep with her on my lap curled up...

Ruins photos II

The Ruins 1

Our Bill listening in rapture to Mike the guide.

The Bill and I in from of the great staircase.

They painted the temples in a red-like color.

The Ruins....

We started the day with a healthy and best breakfast to date. The misty rain cooled off the early morning. The inn has these wonderful friendly kittens that we fed and played with a little. At breakfast, we met and chatted up Susan from Chelsea NYC. She was reading a week old NY Times. Bill and I went off to meet our guide. However, we had a miscommunication with the Inn's main person Angela. Angela is wonderful, helpful, patient and in possession of all those qualities that makes a traveler feel good when he lands in a new town. I thought the guide was picking us up at the hotel. She arranged for the guide to meet us at th entrance to the Copan ruins. It was not a big thing as she called a cab and we met our guide Mike at the entrance to the site.
Mike gave us an overview of museum which was additional, the gift shop and of course the bathrooms. I will post a number of photos and additional blog sections to handle the site's importance along with a link. What I like to add is how this site is different to the others and our guide.
Mike was a wealth of information and brought to life the spiritual and philosophical foundations of the Mayan people and its importance in their daily life. He focused on various Kings. The most important king was the eighteen Rabbit. The entire tour took three hours as we walked and climbed through 1000 years of history. The main monument is considered the largest, extended Hieroglyphic Stairway/temple writing to this date.
Information from website:

The many different areas of Copan offer visitors a feast of Mayan artifacts to discover. The detail and sheer volume of carvings and stelae are impressive; 4,509 structures have been detected with 3,450 of the structures found only 24 sq km surrounding the Principal Group. The Principal Group consists of five basic areas of interest:

The Acropolis - Divided in two big plazas: the west court and east court. The west court houses temple 11 and temple 16 with altar Q set at its base. Temple 11 was built as a portal to the other world. Temple 16 sits in between the east and west court; it was built on top of a previous temple without damaging it. Altar Q depicts the 16 members of the Copan Dynasty.
The Tunnels - Archeologists have dug 4km of tunnels under the acropolis to view earlier stages of Copan civilization. Two of the tunnels are open to the public for an additional fee.
The Ball Court - The ball court is the second largest to be found in Central America.
The Hieroglyphic Stairway - The most famous of Copan's monuments, 63 steps and several thousand glyphs tell the history of the royal house of Copan and is the longest known text of ancient mayan civilization. Unfortunately, the steps have fallen out of place leaving the exact meaning undeciferable.
The Great Plaza - The immense plaza is famous for its stelae and altars that are found scattered around a well groomed lawn. In addition to the park, two museums contain more artifacts and information about the mayan civilization. One museum is housed at the archaeological site, the other in the town of Copan.

More town pics...

Photos of our walk....

The lobby of the Terramaya hotel

Our B&B

We arrive....

Some town photos....

Our first evening...

After dumping all our stuff in the room, we decide to explore the town. Copan central is no more than what seems like a 30 small streets. The center of town is the square/park like area. Nowhere as big or green as Antigua but charming nonetheless. The squared is border on one side by a one story City Hall. On the opposite side is the one simple church in the town. The two other sides that make the square have various stores, the bank and hotels. We sit for a while watching life go by in Copan. We noticed a number of tourists, backpackers and locals go about their business. Ok, we had enough sitting so we take a walk to the hotel we did not get into but is owned by the same person. The hotel is the Terramaya. While the hotel is billed as more luxurious and boasts terrace and private gardens with the room, I was not disappointed we did not get situated at this establishment.

Our walk continues down side street where the smell of BBQ steak fills our nostrils. Everyday people gather on the street and cook different foods to sell. The steaks looks tasty as we wandered over to see the cook. I give him a complement on his technique, he smiles and we move on. We realize we are hungry and remember Angela the Inn manager suggestion to eat at Commodore Mary's for authentic food. A rice, beans and friend bananas plate later, oh a Bill's wine tasting and off we go to keep exploring down different streets. The street like Antigua are cobblestone, an adventure to walk on with small sidewalks. We noticed various small bodegas so we pick up some snacks for the room and keep going. We realize we are getting tired Burt figure one more watering hole before we head back to the room. On we go and find Twisted Tanya's. Like the name implies the drinks are large and booze filled. We hit it at the right time which is Happy Hour.....'Nuff said

Copan: our Hotel

Our drive takes us to a small B&B recommended in Lonely Planet and with excellent reviews on trip advisor, La Casa de Cafe B&B. We are greeted at the door by Angela, who smilingly describes the inn with all its amenities. She takes us through the main office, around the back that opens up to an outdoor corridor leading to the rooms. Outside the top level there is a set up of table and chairs, surrounded by a garden, overlooking the mountains. Our room is down a further group of stone stairs where tables and chairs are tastefully scatter. Our room is number 8 and a hammock sits outside our porch. Bill loves the design as says "looks like another winner."

The ride to Copan

We have a 6 am wake up as our bus will be arriving at 6:30 to take us to Copan Honduras. I actually startled awake at 3am thinking I was late and missed the bus. I rested longer, showered, shaved and packed the rest of my stuff. Since Bill never unpacks, he was already packed. I made a quick coffee run to our cafe and spent the next 20 minutes savoring the flavor. The bus came just a the caffeine started kicking in. It was a shuttled bus taking us to Guatemala City to transfer us to a larger bus.

The ride to the city was a nightmare of NYC traffic proportions. It took us an hour and twenty minutes to reach our destination. Another check in line, we had our ticket stamped and told the bus would leave in an hour. The ride alternated between beautiful mountain roads and dirt poor villages. We pass the border without problems showed our passports and pay the usual shakedown fees to get stamped and immigration. We arrive at Copan about 3pm. Tired from the long ride we grab a tuk tuk (cab) and head to our hotel.....more to come later of our first night in Copan....

Last Day in Antigua

There is always stuff to work out the last day. We decide to spend the day in the city of Antigua just doing our own thing. I spent the morning having coffee on the patio. The connection is not up to speed this morning. I will write up some posts for when the service is up. Bill is reading away.

We decide it is time to walk for lunch. I found us an authentic Guatemala restaurant near where else the center of the town square/park. We ate some arroz & frijoles with fried plantains. Wonderfully, fulling and healthy that is if you minus the alcohol.

I did not have much to drink as I need to keep my head about me as we went to the bus travel agency and got our tickets to Honduras. I am glad I carried our passports because it is easy to forget not to bring them, however, anytime you are leaving the country you have to show your passport. We have no problem getting our two tickets to Copan Honduras. We will be picked up at out hotel at 6:30 am. There we two young college girls who helped us with some translations. They are teachers in Honduras. We chat a bit while waiting for the tickets to print and say our goodbyes.

I wanted to visit a close by church ruins so we header north from the ticket office, passing through a number of buildings that were part of an old convent. The church was only about a 10 minute walk away as pretty much everything is closed. Yet, it was closed but the ruins of the convent were open. As we walk in we notice how stripped down everything is, bare walls, some doors like it was either looted or things remove and relocated. There is no information or guide around so we wander in what was once a gorgeous, large Renaissance courtyard perfect in proportion with expose brick, and in the center a fountain. This is a large fountain but one in never seen before, not the size but the way it was designed. The large working fountain had the usual moat around it where the water cascades down and recycles but this had stone walkways that led directly to the main larger fountain where you could walk around the entire fountain.
Bill was curious about the design. We walked the stone stairway to the second floor and enjoy and nice view of the town although there is nothing much of interest to see and stay.
I tell Bill that we have to see this guy who will hook us up with a way to San Salvador when we get back. His name is Alfredo who actually worked in Boston and has a wife and two daughters in New Hampshire. We make arrangements to catch him when we come back in two days.

On our way back to the hotel, we see another old church with ruins. We tried going in the front door but were told due to construction it was closed. Bill and I wander abound the outside of the courtyard seeing if we can catch a glimpse of anything. We come up and entrance that say do not enter. We can see restoration construction going on so I tell Bill just follow my lead and nod, shake your hear, point up every so often. I put together together a few papers into a makeshift clipboard and sticks something out of my shirt pocket take looks like a badge. We then enter and see various cubicles working on the restoration, ca effete, plu mbers, frame restorers, masons etc. I walk over to each department, say a few words in Spanish complimenting them on their job, we get ready to leave and I made an announcement el Presidante says bueno trabajo.

Bill still smiling says he like to got rest in the room. I say, ok, I think I will get a massage my hands are hurting me and my feet could use one. I bring him back to the hotel and I take off to find the massage lady I met from the other night.

Our favorite lunch spot..

Bill as Wild Man of Borneo

Learning the Tortilla trade....

Early morning, volcano in the background leaving town..... onto Honduras..